September 18, 2008

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Christopher Kane, Louise Goldin, House of Holland, Julien MacDonald, Basso and Brooke

Left to right: Christopher Kane, Louise Goldin, House of Holland, Julien MacDonald, Basso and Brooke

For more catwalk pictures from London Fashion Week, go to the LFW website.

It has been a frantic week for fashionable folk as London Fashion Week has arrived to brighten up morose September skies. Our resident fashion guru, Avril Groom has been on the frontline, in the catwalk trenches armed with her mobile phone, ringing IC Towers with updates during lulls in proceedings. Here are some of her observations:

Celebrity spotting:
Mischa Barton, Emilia Fox and Rosamund Pike at the Temperley show.
Shirley Bassey, Joely Richardson, Natalia Vodianova, Erin O’Connor at Julien Macdonald.
Samantha Cameron at Giles Deacon

Roland Mouret Pigalle dress

Roland Mouret Pigalle dress


What civilians were wearing:
Women were making a stab at the ‘new elegance’ look - think slim, longer, ladylike silhouettes and high heels, all very Mouret. The new pointed toe goes with this look.
Clothes took second stage to footwear which divided into two camps: huge heels in every shape, or flat-soled shoes, with very little in between.

Seen on the catwalks:
Body con skirts at Giles and models wearing the most extraordinary Louboutins with huge heels and triple ankle straps.
Abstract floral prints at Nicole Farhi, vaguely reminiscent of Dries Van Noten’s offering from last year.
Silhouettes and trims inspired by dinosaurs at Christopher Kane, and models wearing vertiginous and super-fab Manolo platforms on their feet - more dinosaur scales, plus rhinoceros horns.
Julien Macdonald, with a new backer behind the brand, pared down the glitz and showed a sophisticated collection in shades of the desert with a whiff of the 1980s - very Versace-esque, in a good way.
An abundance of flora at House of Holland, with sunglasses bedecked with flowers and fabulous floral-printed fabric bags with red leather trim (all very Gucci).
We time-travelled to 1985 at Topshop Unique with tongue-firmly-in-cheek teddy boy-style big, long, loose single-button jackets.
Similar but more grown-up, in gorgeous block-printed shades of pink, at Richard Nicoll.
At Louise Goldin it was all weirdly sportif yet futuristic, like Bladerunner meets the Bolshoi. Incredible, mind-blowing knits, some of them (padded geometric bra-tops especially) wearable only by the flat-chested.

Model wearing pearls at Luella Bartley (LFW)

Model wearing pearls at Luella Bartley (LFW)


At Luella, ruffles and bitsy florals comingled and accessory-wise it was pearls, pearls and more girls in pearls.
Even bigger, bolder, tougher pearls at Richard Nicoll.
Best prints in town - Basso and Brooke’s amazing Oriental excursion, with wonderful rich colours on perfect simple shapes, all cinched with modernist leather obi belts and set off with giant gilt hairpins and combs

Fashion predictions for next Spring/Summer:
The new erogenous zone: shoulders and shoulderpads, believe it or not - team with slim knee-length skirts so it’s not volume all over.
Mini-crinies will be huge - if a skirt is short make sure it’s voluminous.
Mirrored silver elements were spotted on fab Louboutin shoes at Giles and on great clutch bags at Mulberry, so hang onto your metallics.
Floral prints will still be huge, metaphorically speaking, as florals for 2009 will be dainty or abstract.
The Eighties is a decade that refuses to die stylistically so embrace your inner Melanie/Sigourney circa Working Girl as we might be wearing lots of draped jersey tops with body con skirts and dresses, sharp suits with sharper shoulder pads and even paper bag-waisted, pegtop trousers (oh the horror).

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From the pen of our High Priestess of Jewellery, Maria Doulton who's been attending the most dazzling events in the world of high jewellery:

“At the Van Cleef & Arpels launch party for their stunning Les Jardins high jewellery collection, Christian Louboutin was spotted amongst the great and the mighty of the world of jewellery collectors. Does this mean that we are going to see diamonds on the soles of his shoes or is he also a lover of the art of the jeweller?

Isabelle Huppert and Christian Louboutin

Isabelle Huppert and Christian Louboutin


And talking of footwear, whoever said that the web is not the place to sell fine jewellery may well want to insert their foot into their mouth as Browns, the much loved London couture boutique, sold its highest value item to date. It was a piece of jewellery and what’s more, it was sold online. Much like fashion’s hot must-haves, Browns is constantly updating its fine jewellery website as items are whisked off the page faster than you can say ‘demantoid garnet’. Are we going to see a Net-a-Porter type online frenzy in the world of jewellery?

Another observation from a few days in Paris visiting the top jewellers at the Biennale des Antiquaires is the rise of stealth wealth. Top of the list of anti-bling style is the old-fashioned rose cut diamond. This traditional diamond cut has less facets and bigger planes, giving a softer glow than the clever modern, multi-faceted cuts that throw about more light. Often lower value diamonds were employed for this cut but today top grade rocks are being used to great effect as we appreciate their age-worn allure over the brighter bling of the perfect brilliant cut. Very Keira Knightley in The Duchess and one way to make your jewels look like Granny left them to you, rather than fresh out of the workshop.

Keira Knightley, The Duchess poster

Keira Knightley, The Duchess poster


Go one step further and consider wearing emerald, diamond and even tanzanite beads. This has to be the most indulgent yet discreet way to wear your carats. This is how our ancestors strung them around their necks before they had figured out how to cut facets into stones.”

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